Oil conditions the wood.
Food-grade mineral oil absorbs into the wood and helps reduce moisture uptake. Choose oil labeled for cutting boards and food contact. Kitchen cooking oils and machine oils are not substitutes.
Refine
Care Guide
Care for your board. Keep it at its best.
A good board becomes part of your everyday routine. A little care keeps the wood at its best, from your first meal to the next family gathering.
Wash by hand. Dry both sides. Oil when dry. Wax to finish.
Start with everyday care
From our care card
Care, shown step by step.
Sponge clean and dry after each use. Add oil and wax when the wood needs conditioning.
1. Sponge clean
Use a clean sponge, mild dish soap, and warm water to remove food. Rinse away the soap without soaking the board.
2. Towel dry
Dry both faces, the edges, and the juice groove right away. Then allow airflow around both sides until fully dry.
3. Condition when needed
Once the board is clean and completely dry, apply board oil when the wood looks dry. Follow with a thin layer of wax if desired.
4. Buff away excess
Follow the oil and wax labels for resting time, then wipe and buff away excess so the board feels smooth rather than greasy.
After every use
A clean board, ready for next time.
Keep a mild dish soap, a clean soft sponge or cloth, and a clean towel nearby. Clean promptly so food and moisture do not sit on the wood.
Clear the surface
Remove food scraps and crumbs. Use a soft sponge or cloth to lift residue from the surface and juice groove. Avoid scraping with a knife edge.
Wash by hand
Wash with mild dish soap and warm water using a clean, soft sponge. Clean both faces and edges, including grooves and handles. Rinse away all soap without soaking the board.
Towel dry right away
Use a clean towel to remove water from both faces and every edge. Pay attention to juice grooves, engraving, and the area around feet.
Finish drying with airflow
Stand the board securely in a suitable rack so both faces can air dry. Keep it clear of standing water. Do not store it while damp or use heat to speed up drying.
When the wood looks dry
Oil first. Wax for the finishing touch.
Check your board about once a month, and more often if you wash it frequently. A pale, dull, or dry-looking surface is a cue to condition it. Always start with clean, fully dry wood.
Wax protects the surface.
Board wax adds a water-resistant finishing layer and a smooth feel. Use a food-contact board wax after oiling, following its label. A waxed board still needs regular washing and careful drying.
Start clean and dry
Wash away food, towel dry, and allow the board to air dry completely. Oiling a damp or dirty board is not a shortcut to cleaning it.
Apply an even coat of oil
Spread food-grade cutting board mineral oil with a clean cloth over both faces and all edges. Cover the exposed wood evenly, including grooves and handles, without leaving puddles.
Let it absorb, then wipe
Allow the oil to absorb for the time stated on its label. Revisit dry-looking spots as directed. Wipe away unabsorbed oil with a clean cloth before adding wax.
Apply wax and buff
Spread a thin, even layer of food-contact board wax. Follow its label for resting time, then buff off the excess. The finished board should feel smooth, without a greasy or waxy residue.
When the surface feels rough
Bring back a smooth feel.
Moisture can lift the wood fibers and leave a fuzzy texture, called raised grain. As our care sheet explains, smoothing along the grain helps. You can also lightly sand your board at home when needed to smooth raised fibers and shallow scratches.
Clean and let it dry
Hand wash the board and let it dry completely. Place it on a stable work surface. Check the dry wood to find raised fibers or light surface scratches.
Smooth with light passes
For a little raised grain, use the coarse sponge described in our care sheet, rubbing with the grain. If more smoothing is needed, hand sand with fine-grit sandpaper wrapped around a flat sanding block. Use light, even strokes along the grain on flat- and edge-grain boards. On end grain, keep the block flat and work evenly across the surface.
Check and clear the dust
Pause often and brush away sanding dust to check the surface. Stop when it feels smooth; avoid digging into one spot or chasing every knife mark. Remove all dust with a clean brush and a lightly damp cloth, then let the board dry completely.
Restore the oil and wax
Sanding removes some of the conditioned surface. Apply food-grade cutting board oil, allow it to absorb according to the label, and wipe away excess. Finish with a thin layer of board wax and buff before returning the board to use.
Care in a real kitchen
What to do when…
From weeknight prep to a board that needs a little attention, here is how the routine applies.
Weeknight prep
You just chopped vegetables.
Clear the scraps, hand wash with soap and water, rinse, and towel dry. Let both faces air dry. You do not need to add oil after every wash; check the wood once it is dry.
After entertaining
The cheese board has oily spots.
Remove leftover food promptly. Wash the entire food-contact surface, handles, and grooves with mild dish soap. Rinse and dry thoroughly. Cheese or food oils do not replace cutting board oil.
Raw meat or seafood
You are prepping chicken and a salad.
Use a separate board for raw meat, poultry, and seafood. Keep their juices away from produce and ready-to-eat food. Clean and then sanitize contaminated food-contact surfaces using a suitable product and its label directions. See the sanitation Q&A below.
Time to condition
The surface looks pale or thirsty.
Once the board is clean and fully dry, apply food-grade mineral oil to all exposed wood. Follow the product’s absorption instructions, wipe away excess, and finish with board wax if desired.
After oiling
The board still feels greasy.
Buff away surface oil with a clean, dry cloth. Give the oil the absorption time on its label; do not keep adding more to a wet-looking surface. Persistent sticky residue may need a wash with mild soap, complete drying, and a review of the product you used.
A change in texture
The wood feels fuzzy after washing.
Let the board dry fully, then check it again. Moisture can raise the wood fibers. Smooth minor fuzziness with a coarse sponge along the grain, as described in our care sheet. If needed, lightly hand sand with fine-grit sandpaper using the smoothing steps above, remove the dust, and reapply oil and wax.
An accidental soak
Someone left it in a wet sink.
Take it out, clean it, towel dry every side, and let it dry naturally with airflow. Do not use an oven, hair dryer, or hot radiator. If it rocks, splits, or develops an open seam, stop using it and contact us.
Between gatherings
The serving board is going into storage.
Clean and dry it completely before putting it away. Check for dryness and condition if needed. Store it in a dry place away from heat and direct sunlight, with no moisture trapped against the wood. Check it again before its next use.
Good questions. Practical answers.
Board care Q&A
Why does my board need conditioning?
Wood takes up and releases moisture. Food-grade mineral oil helps reduce water absorption, and board wax adds a water-resistant surface layer. Regular conditioning supports the finish, but does not make the board waterproof. Careful washing and even drying still matter.
Do I need both oil and wax?
Oil is the foundation for conditioning dry wood. Wax is an optional finishing step that adds surface water resistance and a smooth feel. If you use both, apply oil first, wipe away excess, then apply and buff the wax according to its label.
Is the color a stain? Why is there brown color on my towel?
Your supplied Refine care card describes the wood as neither stained nor varnished. Natural pigments and tannins can sometimes transfer during cleaning, particularly with walnut. If transfer persists, smells unusual, or looks like a new patch of discoloration, contact us so we can assess it. Do not assume every dark mark is normal.
Can I sand a rough or scratched board?
Yes. You can lightly hand sand a rough board or soften shallow surface scratches yourself. Start with clean, fully dry wood and fine-grit sandpaper on a flat sanding block. Use light, even strokes with the grain on flat- and edge-grain boards; on end grain, keep the block flat and work evenly across the surface. Remove all sanding dust, let any moisture dry, then reapply oil and wax. Follow the step-by-step sanding section above. Keep abrasives off engraving and preserve the shape of edges and grooves. Cracks and open seams need assessment rather than sanding.
What should I do before the first use?
Your Refine board arrives already oiled and waxed. You do not need to season an unfinished board before getting started. Give it a gentle hand wash and let it dry completely before preparing food. Maintain that finish over time by reapplying oil when the wood looks dry and wax as a finishing step.
How often should I oil my board?
Check it about once a month. Frequent washing, heavy use, or a dry home can mean it needs oil sooner. Judge the surface after it has dried: a pale or dry-looking appearance is a better cue than following a calendar alone.
Can I use olive oil, vegetable oil, or walnut cooking oil?
Use food-grade mineral oil labeled for cutting boards. Pantry cooking oils can turn rancid and leave unwanted odors or residue. Never use machine lubricants or a wood finish that is not intended for cutting boards and food contact.
How much oil do I use, and how long do I leave it?
Apply enough for an even coat across all exposed wood without leaving standing puddles. The amount depends on board size and dryness. Follow the oil or wax label for absorption or resting time, then wipe or buff away the excess before food use.
Do I oil the underside if I never cut on it?
Yes. Condition both faces, all edges, and exposed wood in grooves and handles. An unused underside still takes up and releases moisture. Avoid leaving product pooled around feet, hardware, or engraving.
Is dish soap okay?
Yes. Use mild dish soap and water, then rinse and dry promptly. A damp wipe alone is not a substitute for washing a used food-preparation surface. Recondition the wood when it looks dry rather than skipping proper cleaning to preserve the oil.
Can I put my board in the dishwasher or soak it?
No. Refine hardwood boards should be hand washed. Prolonged water exposure and dishwasher heat can damage the wood and glued joints. Do not leave the board submerged in a sink or resting in standing water.
How do I sanitize after contact with raw meat?
Keep a separate board for raw meat, poultry, and seafood. Clean first, then use a sanitizer specifically labeled for wooden cutting boards and food-contact use. Follow its dilution, contact-time, and rinsing instructions; do not soak the board. Confirm compatibility with the board’s finish before use. Household surface disinfectants are not automatically suitable for food contact.
For a detailed sanitation method, see the USDA guidance linked below. If you are unsure which sanitizer is compatible with your board, contact us before applying it. For routine raw-protein prep, a separate dishwasher-safe board is a practical choice.
Does wood naturally sanitize itself? Does oil kill germs?
Do not rely on wood, oil, or wax to sanitize a food-preparation surface. Clean after use, prevent cross-contamination, and sanitize when appropriate. Oil and wax are maintenance products, not sanitizers.
What if my board smells like garlic or has a food stain?
Wash promptly with mild dish soap, rinse, and dry fully with airflow. Repeat gentle cleaning if needed. Persistent odor or staining deserves a closer look; send us a photo and tell us what was on the board. Avoid soaking or aggressive bleaching to chase a stain. Lemon, salt, and vinegar are not substitutes for a validated sanitizing method.
What if my board warps, cracks, or has an open seam?
Stop using a board that rocks unsafely or has a crack or open seam that can trap food. Let it dry naturally with airflow, and send us photos of both faces and the edges. Do not force it flat, heat it, or fill the damage yourself. Oil will not repair a split or failed joint.
Do walnut, maple, cherry, and end-grain boards need different care?
The basic routine is the same: hand wash, dry all surfaces, allow airflow, and condition when dry. Wood species and construction can absorb oil differently. Inspect each board instead of assuming every board needs the same amount of oil or the same schedule.
How do I care for engraving, juice grooves, and feet?
Use a soft brush or cloth to remove food from recesses. Rinse away soap and dry those areas carefully. Wipe excess oil or wax from engraving and around feet. Avoid abrasives over the engraved design and do not leave water trapped underneath the board.
Can I use my board as a trivet or put a pizza peel in the oven?
Do not rest hot cookware on a hardwood board or use an oven to dry it. A wooden pizza peel is a transfer and serving tool; do not leave it inside the oven or against a hot element. Use a heat-rated trivet for hot pans.
When should I stop using a board for food preparation?
Stop using it if there is an open crack or seam, suspected mold, or deep damage you cannot thoroughly clean. USDA recommends discarding excessively worn boards with hard-to-clean grooves. Contact us for help assessing the board; a fresh coat of oil is not a fix for structural or sanitation damage.
For food handling and sanitation, see the USDA cutting board guidance and cleaning and sanitizing guidance.